Please Note these clarifications and additions to the Boffer rules of the West Made official this 31st day of March, 2005. These clarifications were determined by a conference of Sir Thomas Edmund EM, Mari Alexander DEM, Master Edward le Kervere- Cynaguan Page School Minister, and Master Ivan Ivanovich- West Page School Minister. Regarding the “Ampguard” Boffers made by Lady Diedre and Kimball: At March Crown- 3/25-3/27, The Ampguard boffers were examined by Sir Thomas Edmund EM, Mari Alexander DEM, Master Edward le Kervere- Cynaguan Page School Minister, and Master Ivan Ivanovich- West Page School Minister. The fabric was removed and the padding looked at. Many people were wacked with the weapon- some at full heavy fighter force, some lighter. Over all we were pleased with the construction of the weapons and would like a full write up on exactly how to reproduce these weapons. Their durability is especially impressive as the weapons we were playing with were 4yrs old. The official ruling regarding these weapons is: they may be used in Official and unofficial West Kingdom Boffer Combat as long as participants wear a boffer approved helmet. This means head gear that will prevent face and eyes from being slapped with the weapon- not a heavy helmet necessarily. We would also like to see the nylon fabric sheath tacked at the ends so that there are not points of fabric sticking out. It is understood that in Ampguard rules, the head and face are not struck with this weapon. However, since in SCA rules, the head is a legal target, it should be protected from these boffer as they are more rigid than the standard West Kingdom construction recommendations. It should also be noted that Official boffer fighting is a touch game. However, we realize that when children are playing, hard shots may occur. This weapon caused no injury even when the head was struck full force.
** Indicates clarification- not a re-writing of the rules
** These rules are to be governed by the Page School Minister. If there is no Page School Minister, a deputy may be appointed from the Kingdom level. This is NOT a Marshal activity nor shall it be governed by the Marshal office
**These rules refer to Boffer Lists- and official boffer activities- not youth running about being children. We are not regulating random children play. This is the job of parents. If parents feel unofficial play activity is unsafe, they should not allow their children to participate.
1. Youth Boffer contests are not "combat" at all, but a game that youths can play at events.
2. Along with providing entertainment and fun, the major purpose of Youth Boffers is to promote and instill the values and ideas of Chivalry. With this in mind, the "First Rule" is always courtesy, respect, chivalry and honorable conduct.
3. All contests must be directly supervised by an authorized adult marshal who must be on the field during all bouts.
**This is an adult who is familiar with the boffer rules and is willing to oversee the activity. This does not refer to a heavy, rapier or equestrian marshal.
4. All participants must be supervised at all times by at least one custodial Parent or legal guardian. Said parent or guardian must personally witness all of their child's youth boffer activities and stay with the child during the entire length of their child's participation.
**If the parent feels the activities are unsafe, they may withdraw their child from the activity or speak to the adult supervisor to have their concerns addressed.
5. All minors must have a signed youth waiver to participate in youth boffer activities.
**This does not include general play- just playing is covered under the waiver they sign at the gate.
Rules of Engagement
6. Participants are assumed to be "unarmored" for purposes of counting touches. All touches that are "purposely delivered, in a fair and legal manner" will be counted as good.
7. A. No youth will deliver, or accept touches at or below the knee or wrist, or at the groin. Also, at present, there is no thrusting allowed to any part of the body.
B. No contestant shall ever contact another from behind, or when the opponent is not aware of his/her opponent. Such a touch will be counted as not legal, even if delivered unintentionally.
C. Upon the first and second offenses, a warning will be given to the participant. On the third offense, the participant shall be considered "defeated" and shall also be removed from the rest of the lists for that event.
8. A "defeating touch" shall be any touch legally delivered to the body, shoulder, neck, or head. Any legal touch to an arm or leg results in the loss of that limb.
9. On the loss of a leg, participants may kneel on their knees or hop on the good leg providing the lost leg does not touch the ground, if it does, participant must go to their knees.
10. A hold may always be requested to resolve an issue or a question, but all participants must accept the judgement of the adult boffer marshall or the Page School Minister.
11. No grappling or wrestling in any manner is allowed. There is also no tripping or pushing of your opponent.
Boffers and Shields
12. Boffers will be available at all events that have a scheduled boffer tourney. You may bring your own boffers to use, but it must be inspected by a marshall or the Page School Minister prior to use.
13. The correct size of PVC for use in boffers is ½" and up to 600 PSI. Currently allowed in boffer is the long sword and the two handed sword. Mass weapons such as maces and axes are currently under evaluation for safety and usability.
**The Ampguard boffers may be used if all participants in the combat using them have boffer helmets on.
14. Shields are allowed for all age groups when using the short sword and must comply with current and acceptable Kingdom standards (see below.)
Armor
15. All armor worn on the field must be inspected by an adult boffer marshall. This must be done while the armor is being worn by the youth wishing to use it as armor fits each person differently.
16. All participants must wear approved helmets or other head protection. This included leather helms, approved Fencing masks or Street Hockey Masks.
**The purpose of the helmet is to prevent slaps to the head and face.
17. Groin protection is recommended for all participants.
18. Long pants and shirts that have sleeves to the elbows are also recommended.
19. Closed-toe shoes are required.
Age Groups
**If children playing unofficially wish to play with one another, then age groups do not apply. Parents and children are encouraged to ensure that play remains safe and fair and good judgment is used.
20. To level the playing field, and allow for
competitions between children of a more equal
development stage, the boffers shall be divided by age
group as follows:
5-7 years
8-10 years
11-13 years
14-17 years
Boffer Construction
Swords, long and two-handed
Materials
1/2" PVC Pipe
1/2" PVC Pipe Caps (2)
3/4" PVC Pipe Insulation (18-22"for long, 36-42" for
two-handed)
Duct Tape
Colored Tape (For setting an edge)
Saw (for the PVC)
Pencil
Scissors or Knife (For Tape and Insulation)
PVC Cement
Construction
Long swords - Measure a maximum of 7inches of pipe and cap one end. From the cap, measure 4 inches and mark with a pencil. No more than 4 inches may extend into the blade. Have the child grip the pipe to determine what length of a handle is needed. Cut of extra pipe and cap that end. Measure the insulation from your child's armpit to his fingertips, not exceeding 22 inches. Insert the PVC pipe into the insulation from the mark up and secure the insulation to the PVC by wrapping duct tape around the lower part of the insulation and the PVC. The tape then should be run lengthwise up the sword, removing air bubbles and as many wrinkles as you can as you go.
If desired, use the colored tape to mark an edge, which is purely for aesthetics. Also write the fighter's name on the sword so that the sword gets back to the rightful owner.
Two-Handed swords: Same procedures as above with the maximum PVC pipe allowed being 8 inches and double the length of PVC insulation. Keep in mind, this sword will not last as long as its shorter brother for a number of reasons.
DO NOT
1. Spiral wrap the duct tape as it makes the sword too stiff and will not be permitted on the Page School List Field.
2. Do not use a hilt. Different helm construction, as well, as hilt materials, makes it difficult to make a safe hilt.
3. Bury your sword tip in the ground. It will pick up dirt, sand and grit that render the weapon unsafe.
4. Do not use insulation that is excessively whippy.
DO
1.Check the sword regularly, checking for aging tape as well as fraying or aging insulation. When appropriate, replace the insulation. Check the PVC for strength, as it ages it will become brittle and will need to be replaced. (Approximately two seasons)
2. Have fun
Shields
Materials:
Plywood
PVC insulation
Heavy String or Zip Ties
Short Bolts
Nuts (The ones that cap the screw work best)
2-3 strips of leather (for arm straps)
Drill
Saw
Wrench
Scissors
Carpenter's Square
Paints and Brushes
Construction
The first step is to decide what shape of a shield you wish to make. The preferred choices are heater, round, and a bunny round.
Measure the width of your shoulders. Also, measure the length from chin to crotch. These figures will determine the size of your shield.
Heater: Draw a line across the plywood that is the same width as your shoulders. Find the center of the line and mark it. From the mark, draw a straight line down using your chin to crotch measurement. You should now have a large T. Draw a curved line from one top end to the base of the T. Do the same to the other side.
Circle: Measure a piece of string to half the width of your shoulders. Tie one end to a marker and the other end to a pin. Tap the pin into the plywood, draw the string tight and draw your circle.
Bunny round: Once you have your circle drawn, square off the top.
After the shape of the shield is drawn, cut it out. Don't worry too much about rough edges as they will be covered by the insulation.
Place the PVC around the shield and draw a line around the edge. This will show you how far to drill the holes. Remove the insulation and drill holes every few inches, all the way around the shield. Roughly every three inches.
Mark the position of your arm on the shield. Place your arm at the 30 to 45-degree angle to the vertical. You will need to mark the shield just above the elbow and also at the hand. Drill a hole at each mark.
If you choose to paint your shield, now is the time to give it a base coat. Give it plenty of time to dry before proceeding.
Press the PVC insulation around the edge and secure it with the heavy string by threading it through the holes back over the top and through the next hole. If you are using zip ties, keep the joined ends on the back side and cut of the extra bits.
The leather strips will be your handles. There are two ways to do this part. You can measure out two strips, one for the elbow and one for the hand. They need to be loose enough to allow the arm to slide in easily but tight enough to keep the shield from being wobbly. The other way is to measure out three pieces of leather. One for the hand grip and the other two for the elbow. These pieces should have several inches of overlap. Attach Velcro to the ends of the leather pieces with a strong glue. Whichever way you chose, attach the straps to the shield with the bolts and cap nuts. Tighten the bolts firmly with the wrench.
The shield needs one more thing. Either your device painted on the front or your name on the back for identification purposes.
For all other Combat-related information, please visit:
the West Kingdom Marshalette Page
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